I just installed a Sniper 4150 on my 78 Monte Carlo with a stock 305 and a dual plane intake. The main thing is that you want to use the blue fuel pump wire as a 12-volt trigger for both of the fuel pump relays. The challenge will be what you call the "right fuel system". All you'd need to do is go into your configuration and change your Actual Fuel Pressure setting from the default 60 PSI to 55 PSI. If the fuel pressure is a little low don't worry about that. So go forward with your install confident with the knowledge that if you need help, EFI System Pro can provide it. Can I run the pink ignition wire to the coil positive? :-). Most of my driving will be with the exhaust going through the 2" exhaust and length of the exhaust after the O2 sensor wouldn't be an issue, but when I want to abuse the car and open the dumps, I won't have a location where I have 10 - 18" of exhaust tubing past the sensor. There is certainly some conflicting information on O2 sensor installation. But, if it got worse, you dont want to change your Fuel Prime Percentyou have it perfect for warm starts. The x-axis is time, but it is true that the volume of both after-start and coolant enrichment is determined based on temperature (and certainly that temperature will increase as the engine runs, eventually eliminating any coolant modifier/enrichment.) Looking at the 4500 sniper and I run Super Street 10.90. Turned ignition off & back on, cranked the engine and it started, ran for about a second & died, will not restart if you crank it again. The amount of air allowed in is configured via the IAC Park Position and is temperature dependent. Digital electronics like clean stable voltage. Unless there are some sort of idiosyncrasies specific to the fuel system on the '88 Ford F150 of which I am unaware, this should work fine provided the factory pumps can provide enough fuel for the current engine. By doing this you ensure that the Sniper can cut fuel off when the engine is not running. Confession: My TPS is split and works well. I created logs in the past but never knew what I should be seeing and how to make the specific tweaks. It appears to be in throttle body? Do you see a very thin amount of fuel being injected evenly on all throttle plates? Am i doing the right thing? I'm trying to get this article done. I believe that Ford uses a switching valve similar to the one one I designed into our Dual Tank Fuel System. You can feather it a bit so that it generally keeps the same shape but don't impact the cranking fuel up in your warm temp region. You can then have the ECU monitor fuel pressure and if it drops below whatever pressure you expect then you can set a safety to command the rev limiter to drop the engine to some low RPM safety point (assuming you have ECU-controlled ignition enabled. Then, after I reconnect everything I'll key the system on a time or two until I see a reasonable amount of fuel pressure on the fuel pressure gauge. You need to run resistor plugs and resistor, non-solid core wires. Let me know what works for you! Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Set the X Axis to RPM5. All of these values are configurable. The Sniper EFI throttle-body drops in place of your carburetor. I have just finished installing my Holley Sniper to my 67 Camaro. Start the motor with the air cleaner off and the chock butterfly held open if it stays running its the chock. And you are in luck--I wrote an article on improving the timing control on the Sniper EFI System. Any suggestions? One thing I miss is the instant drop in rpms that my 650DP had. Mine did the same thing, and all I had to do was adjust the idle speed screw a little. The Coolant Temperature starts at 106% and decays to 100% at 160 degrees. Regardless, this screw will eventually need to be adjusted. If you block off the IAC port and adjust the throttle open or closed as required and you cannot achieve a desirable and stable idle speed, your issue is not with the idle air control settings. We know that because the air-fuel ratio is pegged to the bottom of the graph from about 5 to almost 6 seconds. A low air to fuel ratio means the mixture is rich. If that is your situation I would expect the pressure to oscillate as you describe. Is a tremendous volume of fuel sprayed into just one barrel? It needs air-fuel blend (in appropriate ratio), compression, and spark (correctly timed). I have a sniper 1250 with a msd 6014 and a painless rocker panel . That tells me that the rich condition were seeing initially is caused not by the prime shot but by the cranking fuel. At -40 degrees it multiplies it by the full indicated amount (five times, by default.) (Dont forget and then later wonder why it wont start!). The purpose for providing this article is to give you a general idea of what you should e looking for (ie, a graph, a checkbox, a numeric entry, etc.) Another great dissertation. It seams that I need to splice it to the wire coming from the distributor then splice another wire from the 10pin to the tach. Back to holley.com . Did you hear the fuel pump run at key-on? It seems to be going threw gas faster then it should. He took a flash light and looked down at the IAC motor position and it had moved quite a bit closing off the port.Now I had to try this and of course my results were not so lucky. That is pretty straight forward. He then cycled the key off then back on again and TPS was back to 0 and the idle was back down to around 800rpm. Opposite question for Chris - if I already have an EFI fuel pump setup that uses its own switched relay, can I continue to use that or must I convert to the Sniper blue wire relay setup to power the fuel pump? Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. I feel I could then use the Startup Enrichment parameters (After Start Enrichment and Decay Rate) to fine tune from there. Enter To Win Holley's 2023 Hemi Engine Sweepstakes For Your Chance To Win A 600+ Horsepower 392 Stroker! Fix that.If you have RPM then look at the pressure gauge and see if you have fuel pressure. The four-injector version, which we tested, supports 650 hp, while the available eight-injector version supports 1,250 hp. My car is going on the dyno for final tuning next week. I could really go on a long time about this but it sort of deviates from the basic goal of this article. Had issues so Im now going with the Holley in tank pump. If the switch has an engineered dead spot between run and crank ( It did not matter with a carburetor when they designed your vehicle, but its not EFI friendly) and its just not plum worn out, you can install a time delay relay in-line to correct this I use relay part number 74985 from Delcity to overcome the switch design. Maybe I am missing something here. If you're getting in the 10's your asking for issues. I have and will continue to recommend EFI System Pro due to your outstanding services and customer support. :-), Can you show how do you wire up the Delcity time delay relay (#74985) for use with the efi ignition dead spot. Can I lower it for this purpose? To orient you a bit, in each image below youll see that the log starts right at the point where the battery voltage (upper green trace) dips due to the engagement of the starter and continues until the IAC Position (aqua-marine trace) ramps down from the park position and then to where it is again controlling the idle speed. 4.) Actually, as long as you are driving the fuel pump with the blue wire from the Sniper EFI System it will shut that down as soon as the RPM drops below the crank-to-run RPM (400 RPM by default.) Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. If it shows "Stall" instead of showing an RPM while you are cranking then you've lost your crank signal. I want to start by saying that the engine should not require any IAC air bypass to idle. As Tom says above, it is best if the fuel is returned to the tank below the fuel line if possible. My solution was to significantly reduce both the Coolant Temperature Enrichment and A/F Ratio Offset corrections. Do I still need the holley 12-753 30 amp relay. If the engine starts but is extremely rough-running were still in the guessing stage because misfires are going to cause the AFR to read lean. Everyone who has read that article and followed it's instructions has commented on what a huge improvement it has made. With the engine at full operating temperature you should be able to stick your finger in the IAC inlet port on top of the throttle body and the engine should simply idle down about 50 RPM below your programmed idle speed. Runs, then dies. No, it did not help. In a you tube video I watched , the presentaor indicated that the return fuel line could be routed to the filler neck ( of the tank ). Any tips or info on cold starts? New or not i have send dead item right off the shelf. "I've edited the article with a note about the difference. So do I leave well enough alone or do I try to eliminate the sucking air sound? Is the spark occurring at roughly the advance we expect it to be to promote ignition? My situation, although related to start up, is somewhat different. Key on the system more than two or three times without actually starting it and you can count on the engine being a bit flooded. You have that where you want it. The Del City Time Delay Relay is pinned just like a normal relay. Does this mean it will have to learn all over again? Only thing Im really looking for is an AFR of 14.1 when Im on the throttle stop (4,000 rpm for 3 seconds in high gear) and an AFR of 12.8 to 13.0 everywhere else. Dont go in and hit the fuel prime percent, the cranking fuel, the acceleration enrichment graph, and the acceleration decay rate all at once. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. These settings will be instrumental to a fast start. This Mr. Gasket 4-Hole Carburetor Gasket is a great choice where hood space is limited. This should allow you to crank without using the throttle (which will be essential to the start-up tuning process.). Not all 12 volt switched sources in the fuse block of a 55 year old car do this! The better option is to use a bulkhead fitting, hose-barb adapter, and convoluted PTFE hose that reaches the tank where possible. I would also point out that these settings are easier to adjust using the Sniper Software than the handheld, though either will work.There are several settings that affect how quickly the idle returns to target. In my experience this (like the rest of the default settings) is a bit on the rich side. What do I need to do to rectify this issue? When you remove a spark plug is it bone dry or dripping wet? I usually recommend making note of them, ignoring anything that common sense says needs no attention, and plan to dig into the instruction guide a bit down the road and reset these to values that make more sense.Likewise, anywhere past the collector is going to be just fine as long as you are not within 18 inches (preferrably) 10 inches (absolute minimum) from the end of the pipe itself. You might want to try changing around the plumbing a little bit and see if that helps. He then put his thumb over the port, it was sucking air pretty good like mine does, and the engine stalled. #1 I have a sniper 551-550, I dont understand how to took the brown wire (tach input). Good luck! By going with an aftermarket manifold you avoid that issue entirely.Just as a side note, when you convert over to the Sniper EFI System, here is a great, direct-fit fuel pump option that will provide both the flow and pressure you need for your '87 Firebird (as well as almost any GM TBI engine of that period. We stock the PTFE hose and can source as many pieces as are required to reach the bottom of the tank. That's a spread of 200 degrees so half of that would be 100 degrees. Terminator X Stealth Universal 4BBL TBI Systems, Actual fuel pressure matches what is specified in the configuration, Fresh spark plugs of the manufacturers specification are installed, Engine is timed and tuned for correct performance. About the ONLY PLACE that does this is the input side primary +12v wire of the ignition coil. Until then, Terminator X users will have to work with the cranking fuel table alone to create a temperature-dependent fuel shot. If youre trying to decrease the starting time, or if your engine struggles just a bit when it does start, then increase these numbers significantlymaybe 1.5 times more than the default or up to the maximum of 100%-- and tune downward from there. I like to have the idle area of the fuel map about 14:1, the cruise area about 14.5:1 and the WOT area about 13:1. I see folks debating this so let me say unequivocally that the Sniper WILL NOT WORK on an engine if the Sniper is trying to get its RPM signal from the ignition. Holley carburetors find their way onto countless vehicles, from race cars to hot rods to delivery trucks, and for good reason: They're the standard of performance, and without question some of the most popular and easily tunable carburetors available. Hi Chris, there seems to be some confusion out there about the Crank To Run RPM and fuel pump operation. You can run resistor or non resistor plugs with the 6AL box. It connects the Sniper switched power to a very "dirty" power source. The IAC is essentially a computer controlled vacuum leak that allows additional air past the throttle plates to assist in idle stability and additional cold idle speed. Cheers Darren. Adding the high voltage, multiple sparks of a Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) is one of the best upgrades you can make to your hot rod. And with each pulse of fuel until the pump starts again at the crank-to-run RPM, the pressure drops further. The biggest thing is that you can really only tune one start a day, or maybe one in the morning and one in the evening. That's where I would start. Too much and it will simply idle high and can be manually adjusted down. Unfortunately, I know NOTHING about throttle stops. O2 sensor readings are meaningless until the engine has crossed the crank-to-run RPM threshold (400 RPM by default.) This is a value that you dont have to nail the first time you try it. Don't change the prime shot percentage though. Bill Tichenor. Capability Range: Moderate Connecting a grounding strap from battery to frame with a frame to engine may have been OK for your carburetor but its not sufficient for digital electronics. Quick to respond and very knowledgeable. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Yes, there should be a steady flow of fuel out of the return. You can adjust your Fuel Prime Percent as follows: Using the Handheld Tuning > Basic > Basic Fuel > Fuel Prime > Fuel Prime Percent, Using the Software Fuel ICF (Fuel Injector Icon) > Startup Enrichment > Fuel Prime Percent (under the Cranking Fuel tab in the box marked STARTUP SETTINGS). Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. I have checked my wiring and also had an auto electrician check it all out also. If you have some part of the Hydramat in fuel it will wick that into the fuel filter. Is that an expectable by-product of adding this relay? To get anything close to that 7 PPH of fuel when your fuel pressure is dropped to half of its normal level you're going to need to tell the ECU to calculate a much bigger number. Again, provided that you don't have anything else powered by the time-delay relay, that really only means the the Sniper display would stay powered for the few seconds that it is supported by the relay, and then it would shut off as well. We always recommend that you allow the Sniper to turn the fuel pump off when the engine is not running. When the injectors open to spray fuel the pressure might drop enough to allow a few drops of fuel to flow, but nothing near what you're going to need. Capability Range: Moderate Then, it is apparently not getting adequate fuel in the after-start enrichment (9-12 second mark), either because the magnitude of afte-rstart enrichment is inadequate or because the after-start decay rate is dying off too quickly. Granted, car was not on but still seemed like a lot of fuel to be returning. Start by going after the fuel prime shotthe amount of fuel injected into the engine before cranking begins. Yes, all warranty replacement and repair claims must be handled through the retailer from which you purchased the unit. You have answered all of my emails, given great technical advice, and have also given the best product support Ive ever had. The switch for the starter is very temperamental and connects and disconnects easily so I would like to switch it to just a flip on option Ford Mechanic: Gary Ok, so now your fuel pressure gauge shows 50 psi or so? Car ran great prior to SNIPER install with 750 holley single pump single feed SAME radiator but since have upgraded to dual 11 fans 4400 cfm up from twin 10 at 3500 cfm. Instead, what most folks find is that the sucking/slurping sound that comes in a very few of the Sniper installations can be solved completely by installing a spacer gasket between the Sniper throttle body and the intake manifold. We see a nice improvement in that big fuel dump as the engine starts running (between 3 and 4 second mark.) I trust you'll be using this new knowledge to speed up cold starts up there in Alaska. Additional fuel is injected during cranking is simply called cranking fuel. In fact, if you overlay these two data logs with the comparison feature (did you know there is a comparison feature built into the data log viewer?) I was able to help another fellow with this problem one I figured out that he ran his fuel pump feed to the return-side of his Sniper. late-model V8 engine swaps. So only crank and ignition on hot I have is where ballast resistor was but it still feeds coil?Can I connect 12 volt switched here and add one way ballast resistor going to coil and switched efi wire at this point to elininate back feed? This is most easily done using the blue fuel pump wire. Fires up & runs perfect. Sure. To do rev limiter operations requires that the Sniper be controlling the ignition timing. Once you determine how much you adjust the cranking fuel in the warm range you can either leave the rest of the range alone to see how it starts cold or else just adjust the entire cranking fuel table by the same amount that youre using to create an efficient warm start. Therefore what remote TPS can be used? features . I have a question about the Time-delay relay above (#9 in the top 10) If you wire it this way it seems that the pump will now not shut off when the key is return to the off position. Any time you want to explain data logs and actions. 2. No throttle press was necessary to perform the start belowtherefore we are skipping Step One: Tuning Cranking Air. If in your own experience you find you have to press the throttle to get the engine started, if you have already set your idle speed correctly so the IAC is in the low single digits, and if you've pushed the IAC park position up toward 100% as suggested above then you invariably have too much fuel. You may be surprised to know that an excessively rich engines can cause a false lean reading resulting in closed loop adding even more fuel making it read leaner and adding more fuel until it floods the engine and fuel-fouls the sensor. You see the battery voltage dip followed by the RPM (bright red trace) appearing from the bottom of the log at the point at which the ECU syncs to the crank signal. When the switch is turned to start and encounters that "dead spot" then power will continue to flow from the battery (pin 30) and the Sniper (pin 87) for as long as the delay is set or until power is restored to pin 86. Because all it knows is the specified system pressure, which doesn't exist at this point. Hard to answer. Awesome Article. HP ECU's. Start by increasing your TPS and MAP ROC blanking values. Is the fuel pressure correct? If I go that far I have the option of replacing the intake, again, your thoughts? Extending wires with too small of a wire gauge will also result in the same damage. Getting it smoothly to operating temperature was. 4.56 rear gear and total weight is 2825 with me. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. Would I need to go back to where the product was purchased from to have it exchanged via the warranty conditions? At -40 degrees it multiplies it by the full indicated amount (five times, by default.) We do see a massive rich dip in the AFR as soon as engine starts. If you do not understand a step seek assistance. Does pressing the throttle slightly allow the engine to start. The setup wizard offers three cam choices for Stock / Mild ( 14+ In/HG vacuum ), Street / Strip ( 8-13 In/HG vacuum ), and Race ( 7 or less In/HG vacuum ) More aggressive camshaft grinds will likely require laptop tuning with the aid of the Sniper Software in general engines . Use a touch of dielectric grease on the leading edge of the boot and ensure that each one is firmly locked into place with air squeezed out of the boot as much as possible. I always recommend fixing one thing at a time. Feed pressure should be knocking on 58 PSI and the return should ideally be zero, if the feed pressure is not correct, or if the return line pressure is greater than 4-5 PSI find and correct the restriction before proceeding. Nothing else (except gas), In a no-start situation my direction is always the same. 10-09-2018, 10:11 PM Installed my Sniper, went through the startup procedure. Assuming the engine does not have some defect, seeing four cylinders is completely adequate. sniper Installation If you're installing a Sniper EFI system and almost ready to crank it over for the first time, this is the video for you! It will add fuel based on the temperature and won't affect your warm start.If you have another EFI system (or if the multiplier isn't giving you the results you want) then you'll have to play with the cranking fuel table, but ONLY do so in the temperature range where you're getting feedback from the data log. So you be the judge. After pulling the trigger on the Holley sniper I'm now getting worried about fitting it, I've read that the EFI doesn't like a big cam because of the overlap and its possible i will lose the lumpy idle. Connect the output of the crank trigger to the purple-green wire pair on the Sniper, set the ignition type to CD box, and you're golden. Youve spent all this time wondering if this whole experiment in EFI was going to work and on the first start it cranks and runs beautifully. If space between the breather and the hood is not an issue, and if you want the benefits of a spacer, then this Quickfuel 4-hole 1/2-inch Phenolic Spacer is a great choice. But I have never heard of anyone else who has had success doing this. So here's how I'd do it:Pin 86: To your ignition switch (12 volts) ), Do you see a single brief pulse of fuel injected, in equal amount, in all barrels? Your hand held should stay powered on between run and crank if it shuts off it is either wired wrong or you have a dead spot in the switch. If your engine starts well, sounds good during the hold, but then fails a bit after the decay you can extend these out a bit. Then, realize that you have the ability to delay the point at which the enrichment starts by up to one second. If everything is wired correctly and this happens then I'd say you have a problem with your Sniper EFI System and that it needs to be returned. You can adjust your after-start enrichment values in the following locations: Using the Handheld Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Fuel > After-Start Fuel, Using the Software Fuel ICF (Fuel Injector Icon) > Startup Enrichment > After Start Decay Rate tab (Also called After Start Enrichment Time), Using the Software Fuel ICF (Fuel Injector Icon) > Startup Enrichment > After Start Holdoff tab, Using the Software Fuel ICF (Fuel Injector Icon) > Startup Enrichment > After Start Enrichment tab. Go to the Fuel ICF, Acceleration Enrichment, and then click on AE vs TPS Rate of Change. You need a new fuel pump. Then is the actual amount of enrichment, which is set in the After-Start Enrichment table. (Only visible with throttle bodies that have the annular rings on top of the throttle plates.). If I go to ignition switch it is the same wire just 2 away. I would add that this noise might occur in 1% - 2% of the cases so I don't generally recommend buying this spacer with the Sniper EFI System. Engines require three things to run. Chris is my go to for any issues that arise with my sniper. Is this normal? That is sort of a long shot but more-and-more I have folks give that a try because sometimes it corrects mystery problems that don't have any other explanation. I'm glad this approach worked for you. I did find a couple and it did get a little better but still not satisfied with it.What is the ISC hold position for and why is it set @ 30? Most current pump fuels boil around 130 degrees. Enable a 1D table3. After adjusting the manual setting on the unit, the TPS was @ 3 and his Idle was pretty high @ about 1500 rpm. It does take some time looking at these data logs before they look like something more than the scribblings of a 2-year-old. He gave no details, is this an option and how would one go about this. Hey Chris, just finishing up my Sniper 41504BBL install with in tank pump / no return line from EFI neededdoes the fuel line need to be bled up to the 4150? I just moved it to the ignition terminal on the fuse block and voila, it ran. Most import. Thanks for your help system is working great!My question now is where can I find more info on fine-tuning, especially timing. Sure enough the pink wire DID NOT have voltage when cranking. I have an '89 Jeep 4.2L with a Sniper 2300 2BBL on it. Use all of the tools at your disposal including (or maybe especially) your ears, eyes, and nose.
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